Inis Oirr (Inisheer) and The Burren

With Lahinch and Callura Cottage as our home base, we headed out this morning to visit Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands.   However, when we arrived in Doolin to board the ferry, we discovered that the seas were too rough, and the captain had decided NOT to make the trip to the largest and furthest away of the Aran Islands.  Instead, he would go to Inisheer, the smallest and closest island because the water was not as rough closer in, and the ferry would return earlier in the day.  We were given the option to go (with a partial refund since it was a shorter trip) or to get a total refund.  We opted to GO!

Art asked the skipper if she (our boat) had been out all night.  Oh Art.

The trip over was rough, and I for one was glad that the captain had chosen NOT to make the trip to the further island!

We found this tiny island to be GORGEOUS!  It was small enough that we didn't need bicycles or a rented pony cart to get around.  We just started walking.


















Inis Oirr

Our first stop was at O'Brien's Castle Ruins.  The castle is located on one of the highest point of the island, and therefore is one of the first things you see on the island.  It is thought to have been built if the 14th century.  According to history, the O'Flahertys of Connemara seized the castle from the O'Briens of Munster in 1582.  Years later, in 1652, Cromwell stormed in and took the castle from the O'Flahertys.  (Seems he took whatever he wanted in those days.) Eventually, the castle was left to fall into ruin.

From the castle, we walked down a long meandering path, with beautiful scenes like this.  We thought we would circle around to another part of the island, but when we reached the end, we realized that the only way back was the way we had come.

We didn't mind seeing such gorgeousness a second time on our way back, and we met some pretty nice friends along the way!

After stopping for a restroom break and a little refreshment, we walked to the Teampall Chaomhain (Church of St. Keevaun), a church that has sunk in the ground.  (The sand has to be dug out each year to uncover the church.)  St. Keevaun is supposedly the brother of St. Kevin (the founder of the monastery that we went to in Glendlough), and he is the patron saint of Inis Oirr.  We were pretty fascinated by this church, and the beautiful old graves that surround it.

We walked around as much of the island as we could in the short amount of time we had.  Everything was beautiful, and we couldn't help but envy the 250 residents who call this beautiful place home.  We bought a little of the famous island fudge to tide us over until we could eat a late lunch in Doolin, then made our way to the ferry docks for our return trip.  The water was SO rough on the way back.  The waves washed over the side of the boat, soaking some of our fellow tourists, but the boat was so rocky that that they dared not stand up to move to a dryer location!  Pretty exciting.  For us.  Not so much for the ones who got soaked.


The Burren

Since our excursion to the Aran Island didn't last as long as we had originally planned, we decided to try again to find The Burren National Park that we had heard so much about.  As it turns out, we were very close to it yesterday--we had turned right when we should have turned left!  It was unlike anything we had ever seen.   The word "burren" comes from the Irish word "bofreann", meaning rocky place.  Very appropriate, since the Burren is mile after mile of grey limestone rock.  We pulled over on the side of the rode and climbed up, and there were grey rocks as far as the eye could see.

In 1651, one of Cromwell's Army Officers said of the Burren, "of this barony it is said that it is a country where there is not water enough to drown a man, wood enough to hang one, nor earth enough to bury them."  But what is amazing is that tufts of grass grow up between the rocks,  and there are wildflowers growing everywhere!  There are Arctic-alpine plants growing beside Mediterranean plants, lime loving and acid loving plants growing side by side, and woodland plants growing out in the open with no trees to provide shade from the sun.  And they all survivie in a land that seems to be composed entirely of rock.

Cairns dot the rocky landscape, and Tim decided to make one as evidence that we had been there.  And his was bigger than all the rest!

We were very interested in finding the Poulnabrone domen that is located in the Burren, but were just about to give up when we finally spied it.  The portal tomb* dates back to the Neolithic period, probably between 4200BC and 2900 BC.  In 1985 a crack was discovered in one of the portal stones, and the stone was replaced.  During this time, excavations found between 1 and 22 adults and six children buried under the monument.  Personal items buried with the bodies helped establish its age.  Such interesting history!!

*A Neolithic tomb consisting of two or more upright stones with a capstone, believed to have been buried in earth with a central opening to the burial site below.  I think.

Another wonderful day in this wonderful country of Ireland. 

We are sad to leave this area, but are excited about

traveling to the Connemara region tomorrow.